How Strong is Strong Enough?

The whole team is here to talk about strength training. The goal is to give a clean and clear definition of strength training and the principles behind it to guarantee what you're doing is actually improving your strength. This can be done on and off the wall as long as the principles are met.

The coaches also discuss what we can do as climbers and coaches to assess ourselves, or work with a professional, to help clarify the direction we need to go with our training and climbing.

Never hesitate to reach out to us on instagram or our website: www.camp4humanperformance.com

@C4HP - Dr. Tyler Nelson
@technicallystrong - Coach Gabe Olson
@liftsmcgee - Coach Collin McGee

Shout out to our new sponsors as well!

Physivantage - Climbing nutrition, physivantage.com

Silly Goat Holds - Climbing holds and wall products, sillgoatholds.co.uk

BStrong - Blood Flow Restriction training products, bstrong.training

Tindeq - Climbing Performance Assessment Tools, tindeq.com

Transcript

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 Welcome to the Camp four Performance Podcast, the official podcast of Camp four Human Performance, A company started by Dr. Tyler Nelson, giving you guys the most up-to-date, practical and useful information on rock climbing training, performance, and rehabilitation. Today we're gonna talk about strength training, how to define it principally, and what we can do as climbers and coaches to help clarify the direction that our climbing and training should.

That might involve strain training, that might involve footwork. We don't know, but we're gonna talk about how to better define those things. And before we get started, a special shout out to our new sponsors. Thank you so much for your generous sponsorship to Physio Advantage. The nutrition based.

Climbing company, giving you everything from energy to collagen protein, everything in between be strong. The blood flow restriction cuff company, which is a fantastic tool, especially for climbers getting into training Tin deck, the assessment tool that is accurate, fantastic, and affordable for any climber or coach to use for strength as.

Rate of force development, endurance, and so forth. And last but not least, silly goat holds the awesome and creative climbing hold that you need on your wall today. Thank you again to our sponsors. Now let's get into this episode. Thank you so much for your support and for listening.

So let's talk about strength training, and I think the scope of this podcast is going to be to just define it, to give the listeners a good principle to always go back to, because the world of. Fitness and training and everything is, the waters are very muddy and it's hard to navigate. And I've always believed in educating people to give them the tools to help sift through any Instagram posts, they read, any blog post, any news article, whatever is to better understand if this thing is gonna be useful for me.

So again, we are here today with all three coaches, myself, Colin McGee. Coach Gabe and Dr. Tyler Nelson. And so I'm gonna throw the first question at Dr. Nelson here is to give us a good definition of strength and strength training that is gonna be really useful for the listeners. Um, I would say that strength training is kind of a foundational thing for any athlete and some specific movements.

Um, but I think strength training is kind of misguided in the sense that it's not always high enough intensity, and it really depends on the age of the individual that's doing the strength training intervention, but ultimately to be defined as strength training, it needs to have a couple primary qualities, one of which is like getting high levels of recruitment, which requires a bit of intensity.

And those movements tend to be slow. And so a lot of times when people are trying to get stronger, they're choosing movements that maybe. Aren't high enough intensity and they're not actually, you know, getting that level of recruitment. Another maybe misguided idea or something we see commonly is that people choose movements that are really have a lot of coordination demand, and when there's a lot of coordination demand, there's less actual strength gains from it.

So ultimately what athletes want to think about is like, if you're gonna strength train, all we really. I guess ensure is going to transfer to rock climbing is the level of recruitment because all of these strength training things that we do, they have coordination to them. And what I don't wanna do is I don't want to get coordinated at the deadlift because I want to rock climb.

I mean, unless people are trying to deadlift. But the goal is to like produce more force in those muscle groups. And get that transferred to rock climbing. So another thing is if we're gonna strength train, we have to also spend more time practicing and applying that strength to the climbing wall as well.

And that was a bit long, but No, that's really good. I think the big takeaway points there, right? Intensity, it has to be slow to accumulate that intensity. If there's too much stuff going on, too much coordination, demand, we're gonna lose the ability to have. Intensity, which again, is gonna define and be that minimum stimulus to actually see strength.

So that's some big takeaways from that definition there. So when it comes to strength training, it can exist on and off the wall. And again, the principles of. Defining strength training is recruitment intensity, making sure things are slow, reducing excess movement, and the coordination demand to make sure those things are possible.

What does that kind of look like for an athlete who wants to do strength training on the wall or off the wall? What does, what do those situations look like and is one better than the other? Um, I think it's the most simple way of thinking about it is it's easier to overload someone off the wall. Just because on average, the average move after move when someone's climbing at their limit is not as much force as they could produce.

And so by having specific strengths, training interventions, maybe every day before they climb, or maybe a cycle of it at the beginning of their training blocks, they have more access to more motor units. Therefore, they have better coordination opportunities in those hard positions. The downside of too much strength training or how people tend to say, I'm just gonna get stronger and stronger and stronger, is all of those strength gains have skill, have a skill component which has a direction, a velocity, a range of motion.

And so there's also downsides with too much strength training in the context of if I teach someone to move a particular way and I stand a modified range of motion, only what I do is. Slow my athlete down, I give them less movement options and that's also not helpful too. So strength training I think certainly needs to be a necessary component, but it should be always a small component.

But it should always be within those criteria like we talked about. It's gotta be intense, it's gotta be slow, it's gotta be in what I'm learning more recently, it's gotta have less muscle mass too, cuz that's also confounding and we can riff off that, you know, later. Gotcha. No. Okay. That's very useful. Um, and kind of going off that, I think back to other sports, there's always like sports specific training and then there's general strength training.

And so takeaways from that bit, a little bit there is general strength training is useful, but we have to understand that climbing on the wall is the end goal. And I've always used the idea that we're trying to. The quality of practice and I got that from, from Tyler, and I use that all the time. It's strength training is useful, not that on the wall's, like the end goal.

We have to strength train for a long time, for long term health benefits and whatnot. But the goal is to improve the quality of your practice on the wall at an intensity higher than you would otherwise without strength. And so climbing is always still the angle, but we're using strength training, uh, to buffer its ability to improve that scenario to get better at.

So how would one, and we'll talk out like both of you guys, how would one go about better understanding where they are when it comes to their strength as a climber? How much strength do they need? What direction do they need to go to improve their strength? How does a go about understanding what that concept?

Gabe, you got any idea? Strength could just be the simple, like when I'm talking to an athlete who says, I'm not strong enough for a move, I guess like that's something that I'm like, okay, well let's. Let's ask them to talk out what they think strength is like. Can they physically go hold that hold and like, can they hang on that hold?

I think that right there shows they have enough strength to do to do it. Okay, so maybe they're having a hard time getting to that hold. Do they have a enough power to propel themselves to it? Okay, so now that's power. That's that component of, you know, being able to propel themselves to then use the.

That they already know they can hang the hold, but now they have to tie that in with a third component, which would be like coordination and timing like you're saying. And so I think that is a good way to kind of break down each move is when you're, people are saying, I'm not strong enough. It's like, well, can you physically hold it?

Can you propel yourself there? Now? Can you manage the timeframe or do you have the skill, like you were saying, to use both power and strength to perform? Um, is a really good kind of way to get them to talk tangibly about the next steps. Um, there is a fourth component I can kind of touch back and forth on that I do talk about, which is just perception.

And I think that is just do they believe that their current state, that they have the abilities and the attributes to perform what's needed? Because there are plenty of people who are strong enough, but they just don. Essentially believe they can do it or that that moves above them. And they don't just know what they're actually paying attention to in the movement.

And so that they're like, I have the physical ability to do something, but I don't have the mental, you know, I'm not mentally prepared to look at how the details and the movement and the timing and like sit in the failure for a little bit and understand it. So that's how I would kind of. Coordinate breaking down the use of something.

Uh, or like when I say I, you know, when the, the general question of I'm not strong enough for this. I think there's a lot more there that I like to try to break into as the coach first. Gotcha. No, I mean, that thing that's really cool as far as climber's ability to assess projects, the run or any type of climbing they're doing is looking at it from that broken down.

Process, like, can I hold onto it? If I can? Yes. If I can't, no. Can I get to it? Can I get off of it? And then utilizing that little algorithm, so to speak, of ways to analyze the climb you're on, or the climbing you do is gonna help push you in a direction of whether or not strength should be in your future.

Power should be in your future coordination, skill, flexibility. And that might bring us into. Objective versus subjective strength training, right? Um, especially in the climate world, I always hear a lot like these areas are powerful climbers. You're, oh, you're such a strong climber, but it doesn't always have to speak directly back to strength.

Principally, again, reiterating that strength, principally is high recruitment, high intensity, slow, and all that kind of stuff. And so a more objective way of assessing strength, at least the components of it, is this Camp four performance assessment that we've been, you know, utilizing for a very long time.

And I love to see the evolution of what it's been doing too. Um, so Tyler, can you speak a little bit more on. Even going back to like what got you psyched on assessing the components of strength for rock climbing and how it's kind of evolved and, and your thoughts there of how we can build a more objective assessment plan to then speak to more of that really awesome algorithm to analyze climbing that, that Gabe just spoke about.

Yeah. One thing that I was thinking of with Gabe too, with the perception I think that I wanted to add on is people for sure limit themselves too quickly thinking they're not strong enough for movements, but every single climbing move has a strength component, but it has a skill component, and if it's really close to a grade that you've climbed before, it's really likely that you have the strength to do that move.

It's just like you haven't fine tuned the practice. Totally, you know, but another easier way to think about like developing skills. If athletes are strong already, it's easier to learn those skills, but they have to get out of the perception that it's more strength. They just need to practice the skills more.

Like for me, I've been learning to skateboard, people have been following my account, and I've been able to progress really fast because I have a big training background. I'm, I'm pretty strong, but at the beginning, I got tired a little bit in my legs, but after. Couple weeks like that went away. And then it's all about skills practice, right?

But if I was someone that had very little strength, it would be much harder. Trust my body and doing those big high velocity drop-in kinds of things, you know? So it's like, I think I like the idea of supporting and suggesting strength training for athletes primarily because it's easier to learn skills, you know, because of that.

But say on that, I always think it's kind of funny when people are moving up that next grade, it's kind of like they're racking another weight, like a full plate on a bar. Yeah. They're like, oh, in order for me to climb V 10, I have to add a full another plate on both sides. No, it's not like more strength isn't required.

Like the force you're using isn't higher. Suddenly it's the skill might be like the move, the movement might be slightly more complex, but like not the amount of force being produced, you know? Yeah. It's very subtle. Very subtle. Or, or, or I think you mentioned it not that long ago, that is kind of laughing about because like, you know, the amount of coordination it takes to do a one arm hae, although it looks.

Like very complex. It doesn't look like there's a lot of coordination happening. It's, it's really hard to do a one-armed contract in that timeframe. Yeah. Reduce that. To have those stabilizers, like there's a tremendous amount of coordination happening that I think people wanna look over because there's nothing showy looking, you know, like we can do a flip and you see that it takes coordination.

One arm hae doesn't seem complex. For people to think about it's coordination for sure. So is using a fingerboard, there's a big coordination component with a fingerboard. I was asking Alison when she was in recently, um, with Palmer and they were testing and I was asking her about the one arm hang and her method and her technique for doing the one arm hang is so specific.

If it's anything different than that, she can't do the same amount of weight. Hmm. And so it's really like a, a wing span. It's like hanging with one arm other arm straight, fully. It's reaching out your wingspan to do the thing or it can't be done at the highest intensity. So there's absolutely skill components with that.

But when it comes to like the testing stuff, I usually, you know, use the testing to tell people that they're strong enough to do things and practice more. And that's kind of been my experience with myself and just to overall do less stuff because doing less stuff, and that's another, I think, component of perception where you say the perception of the person, what they're thinking.

but also their ability to actually get lots of recruitment is a function of how hard it feels based on the complexity of the movement, but also their fatigue from previous sessions. So Totally. I think the reason I got into it was just from other sports doing, you know, working at like a division one level program with.

The University of Misery, they got all the toys and all the fun stuff, and climbers have very little of those things. And so it's just a very obvious need in, in our sport is to answer your question essentially how I, we went down that rabbit hole. . No, that was beautiful. I loved it. , there was so much there.

Um. Yeah, so the assessment kind of brings a, a modern perspective on the strength and conditioning world that has existed, but now we're kind of bringing it to the rock climbing world to just help answer those questions. And I was talking to Alison too, uh, two weeks ago or something when we were in Philly, and she brought that up.

She said one of the coolest things about Tyler's assessments is he just confirmed that like I'm. , like, I'm good enough and then I can just kind of trust myself that the reason I can't do this or I can't do that is just genetic. It's just who I am and that's okay to be who you are. Rock those things. And I was like, that's so cool.

Right? And so the strength training isn't always answering how strong you are. Even though that was another comment of her, she's just like, I like to go for an ego boost. I'm just like, I'm just trying. Sure. And there's nothing wrong with that. Every time she comes in, she's like, I have to beat 2 0 5 on my.

Which I'm like, cool, you go for it. Like, I'll, I wanna see it too. I'm psyched as well. . I don't wanna find any top athlete that doesn't have an ego, like, that's so important. Like people always, yeah, it probably is like hate on ego and it's like absolutely not. Like ego is super important for you and like it's good ego and bad ego, but like, ego's important and, and again that, you know, it goes to the show right there, like when we're kind of talking about perception, but like the, the weight.

Of your, you just approving that her body is normal, essentially. And like all like, and like what she can do is just giving her an okay is like that's, that's a huge amount for an athlete just to have somebody else. No matter who they are and what ability they are, just to have somebody else from the outside say, no, you're like, you're good.

Like that's enough. Like you, like your body doesn't need to suddenly change in order for you to do this next thing. Like, so I think coaches, you know, that's one of the pros and cons of, of our job is that, and not necessarily com, but we do carry a lot of weight in our word when we are assessing someone.

Like, I mean, amount of athletes who I think have got hurt bummed on themselves when they come in for a retest and they're one pound less, you know, on a assessment and they're like, oh my God, I'm weaker. It's like, no, you're absolutely not. Like it was one, one pound, like that was an attempt. You know, like, so I think just like the metrics are both fun and scary and like us assessing them.

Assessing somebody is, or evaluating 'em isn't always, you know, asking for more out of them. Mm-hmm. , it's saying that they're, you're, you're, you're great with what you have. Like, now go enjoy your sport. Like, go climb, go do what you wanna do. Pulling on an edge isn't that fun. Like, that's not your sport, like climbing is right.

So, Yeah. Cause I would say thinking of Post I did or about to do today, um, that assessment is all about the clarifying the direction you need to go. It's not about finding your training loads all the time. It's not about telling you weak or strong, but it's the direction you need to go. So after the assessment, we just might tell you.

right? You just need to work on footwork. Like that's the goal of the assessment is clarifying your direction. So if you haven't been assessed by someone, you're not saying that you absolutely have to have a rock library. You can just go out and have fun and do what you need to do. But when it comes to like optimizing the time it takes to for you to.

and that journey or any of your goals assessment is really useful, especially from, you know, a professional who knows a little bit of what to do, but also how to communicate the assessment results. Um, yeah, well the cool thing about it is it can be whatever we want it to be, and the part that I like about it, it's always changing.

Like I'm not surprised that I didn't really kind of pinpoint the importance. The difference between pulling and isolating the finger flexors and how that has implications for the training loads that people do. You know, because that's pretty mind blowing in terms of how people train their fingers for climbing.

And you know, now I spend majority of my time talking to people with finger injuries and they're all doing the same things. And those have gotta be a part of the reason why people are getting sore. Cuz if we're loading. It's 50% more load on a fingerboard than we ever will have access to on the climbing wall.

That makes no sense. That's a bad training application. Yeah. You know, and so to be able to have more people test that I think will be really like important and, and validate that a little bit more. But maybe one other thing we can talk, I think we should talk about, we'll definitely have a power, um, podcast as well.

But another thing when just with Allison is we retested. You know, cuz one of her interventions was like the campus boarding like most people do, and I gave her some other ideas and she's been using these other ideas, which actually have more velocity. And so we retested her velocity. It was way strong, it was way better, way faster.

It was amazing. And she was so psyched. And so the testing's for sure is like, it needs to be for an individual, but it's not really designed to compare people. And that's I think a really bad application of testing because. . I don't really, you know, I care what other people do just cuz I'm interested, but that it's not an apples to apples comparison cuz our mechanics are also different and so it's not really in all the cases that helpful for people to compare themselves to some sort of standard data set.

Yep. Yeah, I think that's a hundred percent. You keep hearing about all these, you know, other companies out there that have these massive databases of climbers and they're like, you know, Take this huge test or assessment, and we're gonna tell you where you rank and where the, where the, like where you fall in, in your grade.

And I like, that's never sat well with me because I think if you see the top athletes or you see beginners, you know, who are getting into it. Like the metrics still just don't make sense. Like you can, you're gonna find trends like, You could find with any sport, like your, your gold medalist in any sport is probably not physically that different than your last place Olympian.

You know, like they're all genetic freaks. They've got to that point, uh, you know, in their field. That I think if we're just ranking everyone, that they have to have this, like this standard. And like as somebody who has really weak fingers, , you know, or something like that. Or like wall fingers, like my just fingers look different, you know, compared to like all these, my friends who we were just looking at his hands, like they just look like massive, like sausages.

They look robust because they are huge. And so, but like, I guess it's kind of interesting to compare what we can do on hold and like our grades are, you know, quite a bit different. But like I would say his hand looks stronger and can do more. I have different technical skills than he doesn't. So it's like, you know, what does, what do the assessments always mean for you are interesting in like ranking ourselves based on those metrics, I think is a pretty bad trend that we have going.

But, um, Yeah, I guess it's, yeah, it's interesting to see how much weight we put in our ranking to everyone else. Um, instead of just our own climbing. Like I think my, the people who have had the best successes from program to program and assessments have really just looked at themselves improving. Mm-hmm.

and not like, I don't think anyone has got better numbers and metrics because I've told them how much better somebody else is than. You know, like, and so I think that's always kind of important, like, because I think anytime they aren't feeling like they're, it meets their timeframe to match somebody else's performance, it actually just holds 'em back, ends up.

But if they're just beating them, kind of like chasing their own improvement, I've seen way more success. Right. Another little cool mini example. I was talking to Ola when he posted about Stefano's results and he really wanted to share those results cuz someone who can climb five 15 plus like the results weren't as impressive as probably the general population isn't imagining like everyone imagines.

Like you saying Bolt does 90 hours of training or LeBron James only walks around in things that make his calves amazing to jump 50 inches  and like the realization. It's not that crazy. Like they're impressive and they work their asses off for that stuff, but it's not this superhuman like 7.5 strength to weight ratio in their pinkies alone kind of stuff that just, that can't really happen.

Um, and that the send getting from bottom to top is always gonna be so much, so much more than uh, your strength to weight ratio or your numbers or anything like that. But to reiterate, cuz we went on a lot of awesome circles there, , um, assessment.  and knowing how strong you are is, again, important to clarify the direction of your training for a little bit.

Let's talk about athletic assessment, right? So we talked about clarifying the direction. So what might be some indications maybe besides what Gabe talked about on his, like on the wall algorithm that tells someone, Hey, we might need to get, uh, a little bit more strength training into your. . Yeah. I would say like a, maybe a really easy way to think about it would be for people that are new to a sport, it depends on where they come from.

Like I came into climbing with quite a bit of strength already from other sports, and so strength was never a problem of mine, but I always had this emphasis of being stronger from these other sports. And so I would say for my development as a climber, it inhibited it. Inhibited it a little. Because I would overly rely on my pole strength, and that's a function of my training history and my leverage and my genetics.

So I would say for people that don't come from a sporting background in general, and they wanna start climbing as an adult, they definitely need to do some basic, you know, The typical full range of motion, heavy, slow loading strength training. It may be with four primary movements, and they're gonna see a huge improvement on the wall.

For someone that has a really advanced training age, doing those full range motion movements are likely a waste of their time because they probably have very high levels of recruitment anyways. And to get higher levels of recruitment, they need to be very specific. The ranges in motion, the types of muscle contractions, and get away from those big power or big typical body, um, you know, like bench pressing, deadlifting, pullups, et cetera.

Those are giving them significantly less returns, but they're fatiguing and they're costing them time and energy. And so I would say it really depends more on someone's training history. I think with the assessment, I usually, I don't use the assessments really to give someone,  or to give me information on saying, you probably need more or less of this.

In some cases, the training history, they'll tell you, people will tell you. People know what. Have done and what they need more or less. And then we can use the numbers to either, you know, track an adaptation that we're trying to look for or send them in the direction of, you got plenty of strength, you need to move faster, or you got plenty of speed, you need to increase your overall recruitment levels.

And so I would say the training history is way more important than someone's physical assessment on what they really need. Gotcha. Yeah, I, I'd say that it's kind of funny or, or I guess like, to go off that, um, I think just asking an athlete, you know, when they're talking about are they strong enough, it's like getting them to just phrase out like, are you strong enough for your, for your goals, like your current goals?

And I think that's like a way better thing because it's really easy to always.  towards the end go, you know, so if I say I want to climb V 14, I mean if I make, you know, the end of my goal, the only goal that's kind of gonna be a bad process of getting there is because like the strength I need at V 14, like that's a far, like, that's a long time away cuz I'm currently not climbing B 14.

So I obviously need strength and skills and a process now that I don't. To get there. And so I think just asking somebody like, are you strong enough for your current goals? Their response should really just be yes or no. And it doesn't need to be that much more until that question's answered yes or no.

And then the next question of, okay, what do we do to do next? And so tracking that adaptation, like you were saying, is great. Like that's where we can use the assessments is, okay, you've now defined where you want to go next. Or that you, you do or don't have this, now we can kind of progress cuz there's probably 99 smaller goals that we're gonna achieve along the way before that V 14 goal.

And so I think like the little successes are definitely, or, and little goals, uh, are kind of glossed over because they don't carry the weight. Mm-hmm.  that, that end goal had. Yeah, totally agreed. . Oh, I like that. That's, uh, that's good. And I think we have a few minutes left here to wrap this up as well as we promised.

Nice, short, sweet, uh, sometimes to the points conversations about this. But I think what this Absolut episode really highlighted was a nice reflection on the conversation that you can, a, have with yourself and you've built a little algorithms to approach a climb you've had, or a project or better of a conversation with a professional about an assessment or how to understand who you are.

Are you strong enough and what you need to do? And again, clarifying the direction of your journey is what it's all about. Not everyone needs to go pull on a block and see how strong their fingers are. No one has to get super obsessed about optimizing your thing. But this conversation's about if you have goals and you want to go along a journey and save some time along the way, working with a professional or having these little algorithms in your back pocket is a really useful thing to.

Clarify what you need to do. How strong is strong enough? I, no, we don't know you, we don't know your goals. Have a conversation using these tools, a with yourself or B, with professional, like one of us. And we can help you clarify your way to meeting the climbing goals, strength, goals, or whatever it is that you want to.

Um, strength training needs to be intense. It needs to be slow. It needs to reduce the amount of excess movement or coordination needs so you can achieve the intensities and speeds. So strength training will always have a principle definition that we need to understand and follow. That way we know we are strength training and not doing anything else.

And in future podcasts we can really type into the components of strange training when it comes to the anatomy and the tissues and everything that contributes to it. But take that principle, definit. Along with you so that you can clear yourself through some muddy waters, but also realize that you don't have to be as strong as the person next to you to have a good time on the wall or to achieve your goals.

Yeah, no, I think that's great summary. I would say like people shouldn't expect their strength training routines. That includes finger training to. Like transfer and make them climb harder. That's not very realistic. And that's, you know, cuz all of the strength training interventions that we do, even if we try and be as what people like to say, specific as possible, it's still not the same skill.

And so in order to get. Some sort of transfer from your strength training intervention. Again, it needs to be all of the things you mentioned, but it needs to be pretty low volume so it's easy to recover from and as well as your planning sessions so you can get that high quality practice every time you go to the gym.

Then you're gonna get some sort of transfer from your strengths ringing. But if you sprinkle on strength training on top of your high volume training, Already, you're not going to see the benefits of strength training and therefore think it's not necessary. And so it's really about, you know, obviously doing it is helpful, but it's really about how you mix it into your normal climbing life.

Because most people don't get that right. And then they don't see the benefits of strength training, which is very common. That's a good one too. The miscommunication of what strength training is actually gonna do for us does not immediately make you a good climber. No, it will not increase your climbing grade.

Yep. Only practicing this sport will increase your climbing grade at a high frequency as well. But high frequency, not high volume, like mm-hmm.  trying to have longer sessions is not the answer to climbing a harder grade. It has to be a very high intensity session, but it needs to be easy to recover from and you gotta do it.

Yeah, that's good. Gabe, final thoughts? I feel like my brain dislike is like running with a million different  ideas and or in the sense of like phrasing, but I think one of the largest like takeaways from this conversation and or not like, or just really making me wanna articulate it, I guess is like almost all of this keeps coming down to like timeframe management and understanding like the process of how long, like we know that muscles and tendons.

different timeframes to get bigger and stronger. And we know like it's skill time, you know, takes, you have to put in the time to get better at it. And so when we were talking about, you know, uh, the intensity or first, like the volume of it or the timeframe, like there are a lot, like, it's easy to find the destination.

There's a lot of different paths there. And so now it's managed the timeframe to get to that goal and that, that that destination, um, And so I think, you know, again, it's easy to, to forget about how quick a, like a skill and mental game that can adapt within the session that can carry on from all your critters.

Like you probably aren't gonna adapt your muscles and your tendons in the session. And so I think like sometimes like your strength. Often get confused with like your performance goals. Mm-hmm. , and I think those are different timeframes, is that you can get better performance. In a very short timeframe through skills and, and mental game, then you probably can get strength adaptation.

Mm-hmm.  and I, I think trying not to confuse performance and strength, uh, because those are what we're saying, don't go hand in hand. Like you can be stronger and not perform better. You can definitely perform better and not be stronger. Um, and I think that, you know that, and I think it comes back to time management, like mm-hmm.

Absolutely. Where you're putting in the work. Yep. Clarifying the direction. That's basically what this episode is talked about. If you can do that, you can save time, you can do exactly what you need to do within your practical day, uh, and not worry about what everyone else is doing. Cause that doesn't matter.

I'm actually, please, I'm actually pretty pleased that I said zero swear words during this podcast. ? Yeah. I think I said ass or something. Yeah. . No. Two. Thank you everyone for tuning in today, for listening, and for your continued support to Camp Four Human Performance. We really love what we do and we love bringing everyone the most up to date information to keep everyone as healthy as they can, climbing as hard as they can for as long as you guys want your climbing careers.

We have some exciting things. Like I mentioned in the intro with our sponsors, so look forward to some giveaways, some awesome collaborations, and you can always feel free to reach out to us on Instagram. Mine is at Lifts McGee. Dr. Ty Nelson is at c4. HP and Gabe Olson is going to be at Technically Strong.

Feel free to reach out to us.  or on a website through our emails, and we've got a ton of content on the website and always looking forward to helping you one-on-one or through other educational sources like our online recorded content and our in-person things, which we're starting to build a calendar for 2023, but Tyler will be out in Maine, September 23rd and 24th, and I will be at Cornell University teaching at clinic as well, September 24th and 20.

That one has some discounts to the students and the staff, but the public is also gonna be, uh, allowed to join that as well. So stay tuned for those details that will be launching pretty soon. Thank you again. Please like this, support this, share this, and leave us questions and comments so we know how to build this podcast around you because you are the most important thing that we care about.

Thank you all again. See you next time.